What is Bouldering? A Complete Guide

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll have seen someone bouldering recently. Everyone seems to be giving it a go, from Zac Efron to Jason Momoa or your neighbor two doors down.

Partly thanks to Free Solo — a 2018 documentary tracking Alex Honnold’s ropeless climb of a 900-meter rock face in Yosemite National Park — ropeless climbing has been finding its feet for the last decade. Bouldering is a more accessible version.

Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that involves shorter routes, completed without ropes or harnesses. As the sister sport of rock climbing, you can think of it as the cool little sister, same family, but more approachable and arguably more daring.

Keep reading to find out everything you need to know about bouldering.

What is Bouldering?

Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that involves climbing short routes — or boulder problems — without ropes or harnesses on large boulders or climbing structures.

The objective? Reach the top of the boulder or traverse along it. Climbers must utilize strength, technique, balance, and problem-solving skills to find the best path.

Bouldering can be done indoors or outdoors, making it accessible worldwide. From the English lakes to the American Falls, bouldering is finding its feet in the mass market. This sport isn’t just for competitive athletes; the low barrier to entry means the average joe can become a recreational climber on their first go.

What Are the Benefits of Bouldering?

From Jason Momoa to half of your high-school mates on Instagram, the bouldering advocates are everywhere.

And with good reason.

Bouldering is a physically and mentally demanding sport that also touts many benefits.

The benefits of bouldering include:

Physical fitness: There are no two ways about it. Bouldering improves physical fitness. During a climb, you need to use multiple muscle groups — arms, legs, back, and core. It’s a full-body workout that can increase strength, endurance, flexibility, and balance. You might not feel it at the time, but you’ll certainly feel it in the morning. In addition, bouldering can also be a great cardiovascular exercise that can help contribute to general health and fitness levels.
Mental health: Bouldering is a great way to relieve stress and improve mental health. The focus and concentration required during a climb can clear the mind and provide peace and relaxation. Additionally, the accomplishment that comes with completing a climb can boost self-esteem and confidence.
Social interaction: Bouldering is a social sport. It isn’t free solo. You’ll more often than not climb with another person. Indoor climbing gyms usually have a strong sense of community.
Problem-solving: Bouldering isn’t just brute strength and a long reach. Climbers must use strategy, creativity, and critical thinking to find the most efficient path up the wall. This type of problem-solving can be a great way to develop and improve your cognitive abilities.
Accessibility: Bouldering is a relatively low-cost and accessible sport compared to other forms of climbing. You don’t need ropes, harnesses, or a $200 compulsory introductory course before you can get on a wall. Many climbing gyms offer introductory classes and shoe rentals, making it easier for people to try the sport without a significant investment. It can also be done indoors and outdoors, providing year-round access to the sport.
Fun and challenging: Bouldering is fun. Each climb is unique and requires a different approach, making it continuously tricky and engaging. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, there is always a new climb to be conquered.

This list isn’t exhaustive.

Bouldering is a versatile and beneficial sport that offers physical, mental, and social benefits.

Bouldering is an excellent option to get fitter, clear your head, meet new people, or just have fun. With its growing popularity and accessibility, there has never been a better time to give it a go.

Do You Need to Be Fit for Bouldering?

Short answer? Kind of.

Bouldering requires a base level of physical fitness. Climbers must use upper body strength, grip strength, and coordination to navigate boulder problems.

However, you don’t need to be Spiderman to give it a go. The level of fitness required will vary depending on the difficulty of the problems you are attempting.

For beginner-level bouldering, moderate fitness should get you by. A higher physical fitness and strength level may be necessary for more advanced routes.

Additionally, being in good cardiovascular shape can help with endurance, allowing you to boulder for extended periods. Bouldering is a challenging but rewarding activity that can help you build strength and improve your fitness.

History of Bouldering

Bouldering originated in Europe — specifically in the Alpine regions of Germany and Austria — in the late 19th century. Climbers would practice their climbing techniques on large boulders, without ropes or harnesses, as a form of training for mountaineering expeditions.

Some early pioneers of modern bouldering include Otto Herzog and Hans Dülfer in Germany and Johann Freudentahl in Austria.

Over time, bouldering evolved into its distinct discipline, with climbers focusing solely on solving problems and climbing short, challenging routes. In the late 1950s, American mathematician Jon Gill distinguished bouldering as its discipline. Developed the first problem-grading system and introduced chalk to keep climbers’ hands dry. Slowly but surely, bouldering got a foothold in the climbing world. The development of crash pads and indoor climbing walls in the 1980s marked a notable shift.

Indoor bouldering provided a safe place for serious participants to train year-round and recreational climbers to give it a go. Bouldering mats encouraged outdoor participation by helping protect climbers against injury.

Today, it’s a popular sport enjoyed by climbers of all levels and abilities worldwide.

What is the Difference Between Bouldering and Climbing?

Bouldering and climbing are two different forms of rock climbing. There are distinct differences in equipment, technique, and the type of climbing surfaces.

Bouldering is a type of climbing typically done on smaller rock formations or artificial walls without ropes or harnesses.

On the other hand, climbing involves using ropes and other protective equipment as climbers ascend taller rock faces or artificial structures.

Climbing typically requires more technical skills and strength compared to bouldering.

Equipment: Bouldering is done without ropes or harnesses, while rock climbing requires ropes and other protective gear such as a harness, helmet, and quickdraws.
Height: Bouldering routes are shorter, with problems that can be solved within a few moves, whereas rock climbing routes can be hundreds of feet tall and require more endurance.
Style: Bouldering often requires dynamic, powerful movements and focuses more on individual moves and problems. Rock climbing is more endurance-based and requires technical proficiency in rope handling and gear placement.

Is Bouldering Harder Than Rock Climbing?

Tomato, tomato.

It’s subjective whether bouldering is more challenging than rock climbing or vice versa, as both forms of climbing have unique challenges and difficulties.

Bouldering requires solid and powerful movements, reasonable body control, balance, and problem-solving skills. On the other hand, rock climbing requires technical proficiency in rope handling, gear placement, and endurance to complete longer routes.

Both forms of climbing also have varying levels of difficulty, so it ultimately comes down to the individual’s strengths and weaknesses, which is more challenging for them.

Can Beginners Do Bouldering?

Yes, beginners can do bouldering.

Bouldering is an excellent introduction to climbing and can help build strength, improve balance, and develop problem-solving skills.

Many climbing gyms offer introductory classes and have easy-to-moderate bouldering problems that are suitable for beginners. However, it is essential for beginners to follow proper safety guidelines and to always climb with a partner or a spotter to help prevent injury.

A spotter’s role is to assist the climber in case of a fall and to help prevent injury by breaking the climber’s fall.

What Do You Need to Get Started With Bouldering?

To get started with bouldering, you will need the following equipment:

Climbing shoes: These are specially designed shoes that are comfortable and have a sticky rubber sole for better grip on the holds.
Chalk: Used to improve grip and prevent hands from slipping on holds.
Crash pad: A thick foam pad placed under the boulder problem to provide a soft landing in case of a fall.

Additionally, it is recommended to have a spotter to assist you and help prevent injury in case of a fall. They will typically provide the necessary equipment if you plan to boulder at an indoor climbing gym. However, if you plan to boulder outside, you must purchase or rent the required gear.

What Can You Expect When You Do Bouldering for the First Time?

When you try your hand at bouldering for the first time, you can expect to experience a combination of physical and mental challenges.

Here’s what you can expect:

New movements: Bouldering often requires dynamic, powerful movements that may be different from other physical activities you have done before. You’ll get to use muscles you probably never knew existed.
Problem-solving: Bouldering routes, or problems, require you to use your body and mind to figure out the best way to get from the starting holds to the top.
Physical exertion: Bouldering can be physically demanding, especially for those new to the sport. However, most boulder problems can be completed in a few moves, so you can take breaks as needed.
A supportive community: The climbing community is friendly and supportive, so there’s a high chance you will meet other climbers who can offer tips and advice.
Fun and excitement: Bouldering is challenging, but fun.

It’s important to remember that bouldering can be physically demanding, so it’s essential to listen to your body and not push yourself too hard, especially on your first few times climbing. Expect delayed onset muscle soreness (or DOMs) in the following days — those first few stair climbs may be challenging…

Bouldering Etiquette for Beginners

Like any sport, there are unwritten rules and social norms that need to be followed. Bouldering etiquette ensures a safe and enjoyable experience for everyone at the climbing gym or boulders.

If you’re a beginner, standard bouldering etiquette includes:

Queuing for problems: Wait your turn to attempt a boulder problem, and be respectful of others who are also waiting.
Spotting: When bouldering, it’s a good idea to have a spotter to assist you in case of a fall and help prevent injury. When spotting, be attentive and ready to catch the climber if they fall. Stay off of your phone.
Cleaning holds: After finishing a boulder problem, it’s courteous to clean any chalk off the holds so that others can have a clean surface to climb on.
Volume control: Be mindful of the noise you’re making and avoid shouting or excessive noise that may disturb others.
Respect the space: Don’t place crash pads or climb on top of other climbers’ gear, and be mindful of others who may be climbing nearby.
Sharing problems: Bouldering problems are meant to be shared, so don’t hog a problem — be willing to let others attempt it.
Safety first: Always follow proper safety guidelines and regulations, and report equipment or safety issues to the gym staff.

Following these basic etiquette guidelines can help create a positive and respectful environment for everyone to enjoy the sport.

Safety Tips for Beginners

Here are some safety tips for beginners in bouldering:

Warm-up: Always warm up your muscles before climbing to prevent injury.
Use proper gear: Wear appropriate climbing shoes and chalk to improve grip. Always use a crash pad to provide a soft landing in case of a fall.
Learn proper technique: Take a lesson or watch videos to learn proper technique, including how to fall correctly. Many gyms offer technique classes at a reasonably accessible price point; these are also great ways to meet new people.
Know your limits: Don’t push yourself too hard, especially on your first few times climbing. Take breaks as needed, and don’t attempt boulder problems beyond your abilities. You’ll quickly learn what your capabilities are.
Use a spotter: A spotter can assist you in case of a fall and help prevent injury.
Follow gym rules: Familiarize yourself with the rules of the climbing gym and follow them for your safety and the safety of others.
Stay hydrated: Stay hydrated, kids! Dehydration can affect your climbing ability, so drink plenty of water before and during your climb.
Be mindful of others: Be respectful of other climbers and follow bouldering etiquettes, such as queuing for problems and cleaning holds after use.

By following these safety tips, you can ensure that your first few experiences with bouldering are safe and enjoyable. It’s not a walk in the park, so listen to your body and do not push yourself too hard.

How to Fall Properly

If you’re going to do bouldering, you will fall. That’s a given.

Falling is a natural part of bouldering, but it’s essential to know how to fall correctly to minimize the risk of injury. If you’ve ever trained in a sport that involves heights —- gymnastics, diving, trampolining — one of the first lessons you’ll learn is how to fall safely.

Bouldering is no exception.

Here’s how to fall correctly in bouldering:

Keep your arms up: As you start to fall, keep your arms up and away from your body to help absorb the shock of the fall.
Relax: As you fall, try to relax your body and let go of any tension. This will help reduce the impact of the fall and prevent injury.
Tuck and roll: If you’re falling backward, try to tuck your chin to your chest and roll as you hit the ground. This will help distribute the impact of the fall and reduce the risk of injury.
Use your spotter: If you have a spotter, allow them to assist you in the fall by guiding you to the crash pad. Fall on them instead of the floor.
Practice: The best way to become comfortable with falling is to practice, so don’t be afraid to take falls and get a feel for the motion.

It’s important to remember that falling is a natural part of bouldering, and it’s essential to be prepared for it — use a crash pad and familiarize yourself with the proper falling techniques.

With practice and experience, you’ll become more comfortable with falling and better prepared to minimize the risk of injury.

Critical Terms Associated with Bouldering

For beginners, bouldering lingo can feel like another language. Here’s a quick-hit glossary before you hit the climbing gym for the first time.

Bouldering: A form of rock climbing performed on smaller rock formations or artificial climbing structures, without the use of ropes or harnesses.

Boulder problem: A specific route or series of moves on a boulder that a climber must complete.

Hold: Any part of a climbing surface that a climber can grip or use to progress up the boulder.

Crimp: A small hold that requires a crimping grip, with the fingertips pressing against the hold.

Jug: A large, positive hold that is easy to grip.

Dyno: A dynamic move that involves jumping or lunging for a hold.

Sloper: A sloping hold that requires a counterbalance or an open-hand grip to hold on to.

Crimping: A grip where the fingertips press against the hold, often used for smaller holds.

Mantel: A move where a climber pushes down on a hold to bring their body over it, like a shelf.

Smear: A climbing technique where climbers press their shoes against the rock surface for friction.

Heel hook: A climbing technique where the heel is hooked around a hold for leverage.

Toe hook: A climbing technique where the toes are hooked around a hold for leverage.

Flash: A successful climb on the first attempt without falling or hanging.

Onsight: A successful climb on the first attempt without prior knowledge or beta.

Send: Completing a boulder problem without falling or hanging.

North American Bouldering Grades vs European/Asian Bouldering Grades

Bouldering problems are graded by difficulty to guide climbers. Like many sports, there isn’t a single universal grading system used worldwide.

North American and European/Asian bouldering routes are graded according to two different systems, the V Scale, and the Form Scale respectively.

North American bouldering grades use the V scale. The V scale ranges from V0 (easiest) to V16 (most challenging). The V scale is subjective and open-ended, meaning that new grades can be added as the sport of bouldering progresses and the limits of difficulty are pushed.

European and Asian bouldering grades use the Font scale. The scale ranges from Font I (easiest) to Font VIII (most challenging). This scale is more structured and defined, with specific guidelines for each grade. The Font scale also has sub-grades, such as A, B, and C, which then provide further detail on the difficulty of a boulder problem.

These grading systems are not directly comparable, but are based on different standards and philosophies. Climbers should familiarize themselves with the grading system used at the climbing gym or outdoor area they are climbing in.

Final Thoughts

Rock climbing isn’t the easiest sport to start. Whether it’s due to the cost of equipment, a lack of know-how, or having no friends to begin with —- the barrier to entry for traditional rock climbing is high. Climbing is daunting. Bouldering is less so.

It’s a versatile sport that offers physical, mental, and social benefits.

Bouldering is a great option if you want to get fitter, clear your head, meet new people, or just have fun. With its growing popularity and accessibility, there has never been a better time to give it a go.