If you want to improve your finger strength and get better at bouldering, then you can’t look past hang boarding. Hangboarding can increase your finger strength and strengthen your grip more effectively than any other tool.
However, it can also be intimidating and confusing for beginners. Weird holes, irregular edges, and touted by that climber in the gym throwing out single-arm air planks and one-finger pull-ups.
Thankfully, hangboards are just as effective for us mere mortals. And it’s easier to get started with hangboarding than you might think.
In this article, we’ll cover the basics of hangboarding, the benefits and provide you with a straightforward, beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training program to help you maximize the potential of this training tool.
What is Hangboarding, and What Are the Benefits?
Hangboarding is a type of strength training used by climbers. Also known as fingerboarding, hangboarding is a training tool to increase finger strength and endurance.
Hangboarding is done on hangboards — made from wood or plastic — with a variety of holds (jugs, monos, pockets) of various widths. In plain English: holes and edges on a board that can be attached to a wall to hang from.
Hangboards have been found to significantly increase climbing ability, improving performance in 86% of climbers. The benefits are easily transferable to bouldering. The benefits of hangboarding for bouldering include:
- Improved grip strength: Hangboarding helps build finger strength and grip endurance, which is essential for bouldering.
- Targeted muscle training: Hangboarding allows you to target specific muscle groups, such as the forearms, fingers, and shoulders.
- Increased strength and power: Regular hangboarding sessions can improve your overall strength, power, and endurance, translating into better performance on the boulder.
- Reduced injury risk: By building strength and improving technique, hangboarding can reduce the risk of injury.
- Convenient and efficient training: Hangboarding is a convenient and efficient way to train for bouldering, as you can do it at home or the gym with minimal equipment.
It’s hard to argue with the benefits of hangboarding. However, it’s important to note that hangboarding can be intense.
Too often, beginners jump straight into an intensive three-times-a-week hangboarding training regime (and more often than not, jump straight back out before the end of the first week).
To get the most out of the training tool, you need to progress gradually and listen to your body to avoid overuse injuries.
8 Week Hangboarding Training
For beginners, hangboarding can be overwhelming.
There is a range of different boards. Different hangs. Different training plans and recommendations. It’s difficult to know what’s what and who to listen to. There is no one correct answer, but there are certainly a few wrong ones. Truth be told, your first hangboard training plan doesn’t need to be complicated at all. The secret to a successful hangboard training plan for beginners is slow and steady progressive overload.
Progressive overload is an approach to training where you gradually increase the weight, frequency, or repetitions in your workout. This challenges your body while providing the time for it to adapt. It’s often used in strength training, but you can apply the same principle to hangboarding.
Here is a basic 8-week plan to give you the foundations for more advanced training.
Week 1
Hangboarding is no joke, so ensure you warm up properly to reduce the risk of injury. Your warm-up should be 15 minutes or so long. It should include basic cardio to raise your pulse, dynamic stretching, and basic strength movements such as pull-ups or shrugs on low-grade climbs.
Then, it’s time to hit the hangboard. Each week will consist of 2 hangboard sessions, both focusing on a half-crimp grip. This is the best grip to train to build finger strength. Bend the index, middle, and ring fingers at 90 degrees, keep your little finger straight, and rest your thumb next to the index finger. Build the basics, and then complicate.
Start with the largest hold. If that feels comfortable — you can hang on for 15 seconds — reduce the size of the hold you’re using.
- 10-sec hang
- 30-sec rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for three sets overall
Week 2
- 10-sec hang
- 30-sec rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for four sets overall
Week 3
- 10-sec hang
- 30-sec rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for five sets overall
Week 4
- 15-sec hang
- 30-sec rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for three sets overall
Week 5
- 15-second hang
- 20-second rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for three sets overall
Week 6
- 15-second hang
- 20-second rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for four sets overall
Week 7
- 15-second hang
- 20-second rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for five sets overall
Week 8
- 15-second hang
- 20-second rest
- Repeat for four reps overall
- 2-minute rest
- Repeat for six sets overall
If you are struggling to hang for ten seconds in the first week, you have two options:
- Wait: As a beginner; it is not recommended to start hangboarding immediately. It is essential to first build up a strong foundation of strength and technique through climbing and other forms of training. If you don’t have the strength to hang for 10 seconds, you may jump the gun too soon. Focus on your bouldering sessions, and add hangboarding when your body is more prepared.
- Start with no-hangs: Complete the workout regime, but go for no-hangs. In a no-hang, your feet remain on the ground, but you pull hard on the hangboard as though you want to get off the ground. With this, you can train the tendons and muscles with less risk. As you gain strength with your half crimp grip, experiment with open hand grip and three-finger drag, and holds that would be too small for you to hang from. You’ll be hanging in no time.
Regardless of your option, ensure you are rested beforehand (no hangboard sessions after a mammoth climbing session) and always warm up properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can You Hangboard As A Beginner?
Yes, you can hangboard as a beginner, but it is not recommended. Hangboaring can put a lot of strain on your tendons and very quickly lead to injury. It is essential to first build up a strong foundation of strength and technique through bouldering, general climbing and other forms of training. Once you have established a good base level of fitness and experience, only then should you consider incorporating hangboarding into your training routine. It is also recommended to seek advice from a qualified climbing coach or trainer before starting a hangboarding program.
At What Level SHOULD You Start Hangboarding?
As a general rule, you should only start hangboarding after you have built up a solid foundation of strength, endurance, and technique through regular bouldering and climbing. A good baseline is to be able to climb V3 or V4 boulder problems consistently before incorporating hangboarding into your training regimen. This ensures that your tendons and muscles are ready for the additional strain and stress of hangboarding.
How Many Times A Week Should You Have a Hangboard Workout?
As a boulderer, the frequency of hangboard workouts will depend on a few factors such as your current level of strength and fitness, your training goals, and your individual recovery rate. Some climbers choose to perform a hangboard workout every other week, while others perform them two to three times per week.
As a rule of thumb, start with one hangboard session per week, gradually increasing the frequency as your body adapts to the stress of hangboarding.
It is important to avoid overtraining, as this can increase the risk of injury.
Is a Wood or Plastic Hangboard Better?
The choice between a wood or plastic hangboard for hangboarding as a boulderer depends on personal preference, but here are some factors to consider:
- Durability: Plastic hangboards are typically more durable and less likely to splinter or crack than wood.
- Feel: Wood hangboards often provide a better grip and more natural feel than plastic hangboards, which can sometimes feel slick or slippery.
- Portability: Plastic hangboards are often lighter and more portable than wood hangboards, making them a good option for those who need to take their training equipment with them.
- Price: Wood hangboards are typically more expensive than plastic hangboards, but some may argue that they are worth the investment in the long run.
Ultimately, both types of hangboards can be effective for hangboarding and the best option depends on individual needs and preferences.
Can You Do a Hangboard Workout and Climb on the Same Day?
You can, but you shouldn’t. It’s not recommended to do a hangboard workout and climb on the same day. Hangboarding puts a lot of strain on your fingers and tendons, which can cause fatigue and increase the risk of injury.
If you do a hangboard workout, it’s best to rest for at least 24 hours before climbing again to allow your muscles to recover. If you’re not sure how often to do hangboarding or when to schedule your workouts, it’s best to consult with a coach or experienced climber.
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