Having the right shoes can make all the difference when it comes to bouldering.
Get it right, and you’ll be able to excel on small, precise holds and vertical climbs. Get it wrong, and you’ll feel it. But with so many different brands and styles on the market, it’s hard to know where to start.
Generally, bouldering shoes are downturned and aggressive to suit overhangs. Soft and flexible but stiff enough for standing on small crimps.
To help you out, I’ve compiled a list of the best options based on my own experience. Tried, tested and recommended, here are the eight best bouldering shoes on the market.
1. Scarpa Instinct VS-R
Scarpa is a go-to brand for many climbers, and the Instinct VS-R is a top-notch bouldering shoe.
The VS-R has a simple velcro closure, so not much can go wrong. Many climbers like this — simple, easy to get on and off, fuss free — but I find it’s not as snug as more substantial closures.
This shoe has a wider-than-average toe box, but don’t let that put you off. This means it’s comfier than many bouldering-specific shoes, but with a relatively shallow pointy tip, it can still nestle into tiny pocket footholds and overhangs. It’s the best of both worlds.
In terms of downturn, the Scarpa Instinct hangs out in the middle ground. It’s moderately aggressive and maintains its downturn over time. A lot of shoes start with a really aggressive downturn that fades with wear and tear.
I’ve climbed intensely with this shoe for around six months — a lot of volume, fairly hot conditions —and the downturn is still intact.
The rubber on the sole is on the thin side — 4mm of XS Edge Rubber — which can lead to faster wear and tear. It is still durable enough to last through multiple seasons of regular use, and it’s a fine balance, as the thinner rubber allows for greater sensitivity.
If you’re sold on the Instinct, it’s worth remembering that the Scarpa Instinct does not stretch out much. The materials are synthetic —- a win for any Vegan climbers —- so won’t require the same level of breaking-in as other models on this list.
The Instinct is designed to fit snugly around your foot, and you should find that it works pretty well on your first session rather than your tenth.
2. Evolv Shaman 3
Next up, the Evolve Shaman 3.
This shoe is a tried and tested option designed with boulders in mind, so I had high hopes. It features Shaman’s signature three-strap velcro closure to give a really tight, snug fit.
Coupled with a large heel cup, the shoe provides a lot of support and stability, which is great for beginners.
The Shaman 3 has a moderately stiff midsole, which gives it a good balance of sensitivity and support. They are also aggressive, making them ideal for edging and overhanging climbs.
The rubber on the Shaman 3 is fairly thick, which is another reason I’d recommend this shoe for beginners. We’ve all been there: in the early days, you burn through rubber like no tomorrow, and these just have a little bit more to them than other bouldering shoes.
With that being said, they are not magic, as with most bouldering shoes, you’ll still see the rubber around the big toe go pretty quickly.
Overall, the Evolv Shaman 3 is a great choice. Its versatility, combined with its excellent support and durability, make it a popular option for climbers at the start of their bouldering journey.
3. La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva often dominates lists of top picks for shoes. Founded in 1928, the Italian company are known for their high-end climbing shoes.
When it comes to bouldering shoes, the La Sportiva Solution is a cult classic. And with good reason. The shoe has a stickiness and support many others simply don’t have.
The Solution is known for its aggressive downturn and a high-tension heel rand, which helps keep your foot in place and reduces slippage. It’s moderately flexible, which makes it great for both edging and smearing.
Combine this with La Sportiva’s Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, known for its softness and excellent grip, and you’ve got a really great shoe that can withstand the test of time.
The downsides are the single velcro strap, a hefty price tag, and they are not the most comfortable. In terms of sizing, the Solution is known to run small, so you may need to go up half a size or more to find the perfect fit.
Overall the La Sportiva Solution is a reliable and high-performing bouldering shoe if you’re willing to fork out for it.
4. Scarpa Vapour
The Vapour is one of Scarpa’s most popular models, and it’s easy to see why. Scarpa made these as a super soft beginner shoe, designed with comfort in mind (a big win for bouldering).
Like many on this list, it’s got a velcro closure system that provides a snug and secure fit, and the heel cup is perfectly sized, giving you confidence when heel hooking.
It has a medium to stiff sole and a moderately aggressive toe box, providing enough power for tricky problems while being comfortable enough for longer sessions.
Where the Scarpa Vapour falls short is the rubber on the sole. Similar to the Scarpa Instinct, it’s on the thinner side — 4mm — which can lead to faster wear and tear.
Unlike the Instinct, the Vapour uses Vibram XS Edge rubber, a rubber designed to be stickier. Unfortunately, this doesn’t last anywhere near as long as the former, especially if you’re repeatedly on sharp toe hooks.
Overall, the Scarpa Vapour is still a good beginner choice for bouldering, especially for its comfort. You’ll just need to replace them sooner than other more robust designs.
5. Boreal Silex
The Boreal Silex is a solid contender if you climb both indoor and outdoor problems, with a fairly comfortable fit designed with durability in mind.
The Silex features a slightly asymmetrical shape and medium-stiffness sole, which makes it suitable for a variety of routes. It’s not as aggressively downturned as some other shoes on this list, but still has enough curve in the toe box to provide decent precision on smaller holds.
If you’re not a fan of a single velcro closure system, the Sileax might just be for you. The lacing system allows for a custom fit. For me, I find velcro closures never feel perfectly secure, so the ability to lace was welcomed.
In terms of durability, the Silex features Boreal’s proprietary Zenith rubber, which is known for its durability and ability to hold up well over time.
The thicker rubber on the sole provides ample protection for the shoe, which can be a big plus for those who tend to put their shoes through a lot of wear and tear, especially outdoors.
Overall, the Boreal Silex is a versatile and reliable choice for those looking for an all-around bouldering shoe.
While it may not be the most aggressive shoe on the market, its comfortable fit and solid construction make it a great option for those who just want a once and done solution.
6. La Sportiva Miura VS
When it comes to bouldering shoes, the La Sportiva Miura VS is a classic choice that’s still loved by many.
These were my first ever bouldering-specific shoe and will always have a special place in my heart. Truth be told, it probably doesn’t hold its own among the others on the list anymore.
The Miura VS features a velcro closure system, which can be convenient and easy to adjust. The heel cup is snug but not overly tight, providing excellent support and preventing slippage. The Miura is known for comfort, it really is a shoe that’s great for all-day wear.
The toe box is moderately aggressive, providing precision and edging capabilities. But, and it’s a big but, the three velcro straps mean no toe-top rubber.
Toe hooks are a struggle, which is a big problem for boulder-specific shoes. The Vibram XS Edge rubber on the sole is thick and durable, providing excellent grip and longevity. This is especially helpful for beginners who may be hard on their shoes as they learn the ropes.
Overall, the La Sportiva Miura VS is still a solid choice if you can find a good deal, but as they are normally priced similarly to the La Sportiva Solution, they wouldn’t be my go-to recommendations (even if they do hold that special place in my heart).
7. Scarpa Helix
The Scarpa Helix is the perfect shoe for beginners who are looking for a comfortable and durable shoe to really get stuck in with.
Unlike many on this list, the Helix is designed with a flat profile and low to moderate asymmetry, which makes it a much comfier shoe to wear.
One of the best things about the Helix is the fact that it comes with a lacing system that can be adjusted to fit your foot perfectly. The laces allow you to tighten the shoe in the areas where you need it the most, providing you with excellent support and precision.
The Helix also comes with a durable and thick rubber sole which provides excellent traction and durability, so it really is ideal for beginners who are still learning how to climb.
The sole also features a full-length midsole which provides excellent support and comfort for your feet.
As for how it fairs as a bouldering shoe, the downside is that it’s not designed for bouldering.
Generally, bouldering shoes are downturned and aggressive to suit overhangs, the Scarpa Helix, not so much.
However, it is a really versatile shoe that works for lots of different climbing styles. If you’re looking for a shoe that isn’t excellent at any one thing but that is good across bouldering, sport climbing, and indoor climbing, it might be with the one.
Its moderate stiffness provides you with enough support and stability, making it suitable for both vertical and overhanging routes.
Overall, if you are looking for a comfortable and versatile shoe that can handle a variety of climbing styles, the Scarpa Helix is definitely worth considering.
8. La Sportiva Tarantulace
When it comes to all-day comfort and versatility, the La Sportiva Tarantulace is hard to beat. It’s the most popular beginning climbing shoe of all time, and with a comfortable fit and a sturdy build, this shoe is a great option for bouldering too.
The Tarantulace features a lace-up closure (and we know how much I like those) which makes it easy to get a really snug, secure fit.
The upper is made of synthetic leather and features a padded tongue and collar, which adds to the overall comfort of the shoe. The rubber on the sole of the Tarantulace is relatively thick, which adds to the durability of the shoe. However, this can also make it more difficult to feel the holds underfoot.
There are two big downsides to the Tarantulace: the first is that it is not as aggressive as some of the other shoes on this list. However, this makes it a great option for those who are just starting out or who prefer a more moderate shoe.
The second is that it’s not made for toe hooks, or any technical problems really.
Like any beginner shoe prioritising comfort and versatility, the Tarantulace sacrifices technical ability. If you’re looking for a superior heel hook, this isn’t the shoe for you. If you’re looking for a good pair to learn the ropes, these might be the ones.
Overall, the La Sportiva Tarantulace is a great all-around shoe that is comfortable and durable, making it a top choice for those who are just starting out or who want a shoe that can handle a variety of climbing styles.
What Bouldering Shoe Should I Buy in 2023?
We’ve touched on it already: bouldering is its own discipline and requires a special kind of shoe. What works for me may not work for you, but rest assured with hundreds of options available, you’ll very quickly find what works (and what doesn’t) for you.
If I had to choose one? The La Sportiva Solution, tried, tested and perfect for bouldering.
They may not be the most comfortable, but with an aggressive downturn, super-soft sole and a sticky rubber loved by the pros, what more could you want in a bouldering shoe?
If you can splash the cash, the La Sportiva Solution is the way to go.
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